My wife and I are in the midst of an adventure we’ve been looking forward to for a long time. Unable to show people some of our favorite spots in Europe this summer with World to the Wise Cultural Tours [link], we are taking advantage of an opportunity to see a part of the US we’ve been wanting to visit: the Northwest.
We first flew to our niece’s wedding in San Jose, California, which was our excuse to get to the West Coast in the first place. My wife had seen an ad for a half price on sleeper compartments on Amtrak, and the sale was ending soon. So we had to do some quick decision making and decided this was our chance. We booked an overnight train from San Jose to Seattle — our very first train trip on American soil.
Having ridden on dozens, if not hundreds, of European trains over the years, we were so curious to experience the American version of train travel. The San Jose train station was the first surprise; although it is not a small town by any measure, the train station was small and practically dead when we arrived, with one employee to be found in the entire front hall. This of course makes sense, given the small number of trains that pass along that route. It’s no secret that what train system there is in the US — apparently limited to Amtrak and CalTrain in California — is grossly underdeveloped compared to most of the rest of the world. We love the autonomy of the car too much to invest in mass transit.
Before sharing some of my observations and comparisons with European train travel, I should mention that we happen to be traveling to the Northwest in the middle of a historic heat wave. Temperatures of over 100F (40C) have dictated that we have been limited to a maximum speed of 40 mph (60 kph) for large parts of the trip and are therefore delayed.
What follows is a random list of some of my observations as a long-time traveler:
What to love
The attendants
As we had booked a sleeper compartment, we were welcomed aboard by one of the kindest attendants I’ve ever seen. John helped us with our bags, showed us to our compartment, and converted our seats to berths when the time came. I don’t remember ever having such personal service aboard a European train. John was so easy to talk to. He’s been with Amtrak for…wait for it… 46 years, always on the same route between Los Angeles and Seattle.
The observation or sightseeing car
Each car on this Amtrak train, the Coast Starlight, is two-storied. On the upper level above the snack bar is a bright, airy car with booth tables on one end and comfortable seats facing outside on each side on the other end. Equipped with power outlets, this is a great way to enjoy wonderful views of some spectacular scenery, enjoy a book or get some work done (all of which I did) in a relaxed atmosphere.
The dining car experience
Our sleeper tickets included meal service in the dining car, where we chose three courses from a limited but excellent menu. The food, as well as the presentation, was delicious. Served on plasticware that looked like ceramic and with real silverware, the selections were varied if traditional.
What could use some improvement
The level of professionalism
Throughout the more than 24-hour trip (except for the quiet sleeping hours), the staff could be heard talking to each other on the PA system in a very unprofessional manner. Surely there is a dedicated intercom system aboard they could use for internal and interpersonal communication.
The sleeping space
I have slept on a number of night trains in Europe, but I have never seen such a tiny space for two people. Once the berths were set up, there was not enough room for both of us to stand up or turn around without opening the door to the corridor. The berths are extremely narrow — certainly not made for anyone remotely plus size.
Power outlets and wifi
There was only one power outlet for two people in the compartment — surely adding a second one would be a worthwhile investment. And there is no wifi anywhere on the train. Not all European trains have wifi my any means — but the reason it would be helpful on this train route is that cell phone service was incredibly spotty, so even hotspots could not be counted on.
Would we take a trip like this again?
In a heartbeat. All in all, it’s a good value (especially if you find a sale like we did) and an excellent way to see the (unfortunately sparse) parts of this vast country of ours where train travel is an option. You'd best not be in a hurry, and flexibility and patience on these long haul trips are a must.
I should also mention in closing that one reason we sometimes include an overnight train in our European itineraries with World to the Wise Cultural Tours is for economic reasons. If you fly to your destination, you still have to pay for a night at the hotel, whereas the train combines these two into one.
ALL that said, here’s to more and more train travel in the USA.